Portugal’s Pastries

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Taking in the sights of Lisbon takes a lot out of you!

Sometimes you just need a little pick me up…a little dessert to tide you over until dinnertime.

So…where do you go? There are many places throughout Lisbon that you will spot pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry being sold. If you are in Belém, however, the place to go is Pastéis de Belém.

A popular dessert in other parts of western Europe, Asia and former Portuguese colonies, such as Brazil, Mozambique, Macau, Goa and East Timor, it is most well known as the dessert of choice in Portugal and is sometimes called Pastel de Belém or Pastries of Bethlehem.

A visit to the Monasteiro Jeronimos had brought us to Belém and I had decided that we would check out the dessert shop while we were in the area.

A short walk from the monastery took us to the shop that was established at the beginning of the nineteenth century. At the time, convents and monasteries in the country were shut down due to the Liberal Revolution in 1820. Clergy and laborers were expelled in 1834, so in an attempt to earn a living, someone from the monastery began selling pastries in the nearby general store which soon became extremely popular.

In 1837, the dessert’s productions took place in buildings attached to a sugar refinery which was also attached to the general store. The recipe was kept secret and only passed on to master confectioners who made the pastries away from prying eyes.

Though, at the time, Belém was a little far from Lisbon’s center, the grandeur of the monastery and other nearby attractions attracted visitor’s who then became accustomed to the delicious pastries. Word spread back to Lisbon and Pasteis de Belém was born!

Today, word has not only spread to Lisbon, but throughout the world! As we approached, we noticed a long line waiting to enter the restaurant’s doors alongside the beautiful tile work that advertises the name and year of the establishment. Taking our place in line, we were finally seated about twenty minutes later.

The walls were decorated in the traditional blue and white tiles seen throughout Portugal and the ceiling was embellished with elaborate millwork. There were many tables scattered throughout various rooms, causing the waiters to skillfully slide between them while balancing plates and trays of drinks.

Pastéis de Belém menu
Front part of restaurant for take-out
Restaurant decor

It didn’t take long to place our order or receive it and we learned that the menu not only offered the famous desserts but other tasty treats such as Bolo Inglês, Marmelada, Sortido, Salgados as well as coffees and other drinks.

As expected, everything was delicious but there was not much time to linger and rest. Tables were needed to accommodate those who were now waiting in that very long line!

And we had other things to see in Belém…now that our bellies were full and our sweet tooth was satisfied!

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Pastéis de Belém

  • https://pasteisdebelem.pt/en/
  • Address: Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92, 1300 – 085 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours: daily, 0800-2000. Closure at 2200 from June 1 – October 15. On December 24, 25, 31 and January 1, closure at 1900.
  • Admission: free, prices for food and drink items vary
  • Getting There: Train, Line 19001 from Cais Do Sodre station (7 minutes), Bus from Santos station (15 minutes), Tram, Pç. Figueira to Altinho (19 minutes), Uber (8 minutes).

Along the Rhine-Bacharach

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There are so many beautiful towns along the Rhine River in Germany. But how do you decide which one to visit?

You call a friend who is from there for suggestions!

So, after my friend, Annie, gave me a list of her favorites, I decided on the town of Bacharach. Only a few trains stops up the river, she described it as charming with a very German feel and consisting of an upper town with amazing views of the valley below and a small town beneath. At this time of year, there would not be many tourists…the most enticing bit of information!

After a long night of transatlantic travel, I was tired, but I decided to head right out to make the most of the shorter hours of the fall season.

It took a few minutes to figure out my train ticket and which platform I was leaving from at the Mainz train station, however, I was soon on my way. Forty-five minutes (and a short nap) later, I was exiting Bacharach’s small station and heading into the lower town along the river.

Bacharach Train Station
First views of Bacharach from the train station

Walking along the main street, I found it to be extremely picturesque and quiet, which was both good and bad. Good that I did not have to fight for space along the small walkways and narrow streets, but bad that not a lot of the shops were open. Contenting myself with a bit of window shopping, I headed north towards the center of town, passing the Stadt Bacharach am Rhein, a city government office, and other buildings, all constructed in the traditional half-timbered style.

Walking along Bacharach’s main street (Stadt Bacharach am Rhein bottom, middle photo).
Walking along Bacharach’s main street
Hotel Kranenturm, an historic hotel built into and alongside the Kranenturm tower and city walls.
Walking along Bacharach’s main street.

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach, the town’s Catholic church, was open, however, I decided to bypass instead to make the ascent to the upper town first. Taking the stairs behind the church, I began the long climb, pausing every so often to take a breather and take in my surroundings. Views of the nearby hillsides offered ancient crumbling walls, old towers and lovely perspectives of the town below.

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach
Stairs to Werner chapel, castle and upper town.
Views from the stairway.

Eventually, along the long, steep staircase, I came upon the Ruine Wernerkapelle. The Werner Chapel was a major landmark in Bacharach and was erected after the murder of a boy called Werner. The fury over the murder resulted in riots and subsequently, the deaths of forty other people. In 1287, work began on the chapel to commemorate Werner’s memory and to offer a place of prayer for those making pilgrimages to his grave site. Sadly, the beautiful chapel was destroyed in the War of the Grand Alliance in 1689 and only the crumbling ruins remain.

Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel
Werner Chapel

Continuing my climb, the stairs transitioned from hard stone to packed earth, littered with fallen leaves and twigs causing me to carefully place my footing with each step. Breathing heavy and tired, I finally encountered a stone archway and a another set of steps leading to Burg Stahleck, the historic castle dating back to the 12th century. Now housing the Bacharach Youth Hostel, it consists of half-timbered houses, romantic courtyards, towers and a cozy wine bar with stunning views of the Rhine Valley.

Werner Chapel from higher up
Entrance to Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck
Burg Stahleck

After winding my way throughout the property, I headed to the small restaurant, grabbed a bottle of Bitburger beer and sat in the courtyard, watching the cruise boats navigate the river below. The beer was a much needed refreshment but after a night of little sleep, I had to fight the urge to have another lest I succumb to the longer sleep I desperately needed…plus, I still had much to see in the lower town!

Views from Burg Stahleck courtyard

Descending the seemingly never-ending staircase, I finally reached St. Peter’s church (est. 1230) once again. Thankfully finding it unlocked, I ventured inside, admiring the rich ornamentation and beautiful interior in the early French Gothic Style. While not as ostentatious as those in Italy or Central and South America, what I admired most was the beautiful organ and the brightly colored capitals on the columns.

Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter
Kirch St. Peter

Heading west behind the church, but still in the lower town, I found myself strolling along small pathways next to a narrow waterway. Admiring the flowers that grew along the trail and the beautiful old homes, I finally found the Steeger Tor, the wooden tower built in the 14th century at the western corner of the city’s fortifications. The Steeger Tor has retained its original roof and is constructed in the half-timbered style seen throughout the city. Covering the Blücherstraße, cars are still allowed to transit through its open base.

Pathway to Steeger Tor
Pathway to Steeger Tor
Pathway to Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor
Steeger Tor

After a string of cars had passed, I carefully walked though the opening and then made my way up to the hillside planted with rows of grapevines winding their way along the wired supports. A dusty path led me to the Postenturm, which once acted as a defense tower in the northern wall of the town and was restored as a water reservoir in 1899. Now solely an observation tower, the slate quarry stone spire allows visitors to climb to its head for incredible views of the upper and lower towns and the surrounding countryside.

Bacharach’s fields of grapes which yield their famous wine
Postenturm
Postenturm
Views from the Postenturm
Views from the Postenturm
Postenturm

After my visit, I continued back down the hillside and encountered a cute grey cat who jumped down from its perch to lead me to the way back to the lower town. Wandering the small cobblestone streets, I discovered many interesting sights…an alleyway filled with umbrellas, the Virgin Mary tucked behind a small arched window, a wishing well and a garden of zebras…before finding the Münzturm.

Pathway from the Postenturm
My cat guide.
Discoveries in the lower town.
Discoveries in the lower town.
The lower town.
View of the Postenturm from the lower town.
Restaurant in the lower town.
The lower town.

The Münzturm, an historic tower, is well known throughout the region as the location that Swedish troops entered to invade the city during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648). Built in the 14th century, it is also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower because of its location near the Palatinate mint on Oberstrasße. As with the Steeg Tor, cars can utilize the narrow opening at the bottom to enter the city and a staircase on the southern side leads to the city wall. Still in use today, the upper floors serve as a guild tower, archive and meeting room for the Wine Guild Bacchus Zechgesellschaft zu Bacharach und Steeg von 1328.

Münzturm, also known as the Mint Tower or the Coin Tower.

While my plan had been to have a bite to eat at the medieval, half-timber Altes Haus, I discovered that it did not open on this particular day until 6:00 p.m. Not wanting to return to Mainz in the late evening, I decided to take a few photos of the place that was immortalized by Rhine poets and the setting of many films. This famous restaurant was built in 1586 but an inscription on the house states that its beginnings date back to 1368.

Altes Haus restaurant

Continuing on with my explorations, I headed back toward St. Peter’s Church, taking a left on Marktstraße. Here, I discovered yet another historic tower, the Marktturm.

The lower town.
Marktturm

This tower was well known for the annual Bacharach wine market that took place between the tower and the church during the 15th and 18th centuries. During the 18th century, it also functioned as a prison, during the 19th century, it housed the community bell and in the 20th, a wine tavern. Escaping damage during World War II, it was restored in 1910 and today it is used as a private residence. Part of one of the best preserved city fortifications in the Rhine Valley, you can also access the city wall from a staircase on the left-hand side.

Passing beneath the Marktturn, I headed to the pathway outside the city walls for a different perspective. While I did not walk along the immediate river front, I could see numerous boats traversing the waters and a couple parked at the river’s edge. I knew there were boats that could take me all the way back to Mainz, but I was not sure of the schedule or the embarkation and disembarkation points. Instead, I walked along, passing the Church of St. Nikolaus and the Customs House while making my way back to the train station. What I later learned was that it has been said that once upon a time, kings from around the world would only drink Bacharach wine. Being a major player in the wine industry, the sales and the collected customs duties, in this exact building, made Bacharach an extremely wealthy town.

City entrance and city walls. Alternate view of the Kranenturm hotel which is built into the city wall and tower.
Church of St. Nikolaus

While there are many beautiful towns throughout this region, Bacharach is definitely one that warrants the effort for those desiring to be transported back many centuries. Definitely not a large city, but I would still say that Bacharach is still a rich one. Rich in its history and rich in that it is one of Germany’s true treasures in the Rhine Valley.

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Burg Stahleck

Kirch St. Peter in Bacharach-Evanglische Kirchengemeinde Vierthaler

Ruine Wernerkapelle

Steeger Tor

Postenturm

Münzturm

Altes Haus

Marktturm

Around the Hoorn

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

So often have I visited Amsterdam over the years, that sometimes I need a bit of variety. Looking for a nice little day trip to get me away from the city I stumbled upon an article about the town of Hoorn, a city in the northern part of The Netherlands.  The article had stated that Hoorn was one of the “Best Day Trips From Amsterdam”, so I thought, why not? Though it was early Fall, the sun was forecasted to be shining and it was going to be rather warm…the perfect day for some sightseeing!

Taking the train from Amsterdam’s Central Station, I thought I was doing the right thing when I arrived at the station and nabbed an earlier departure.  I relaxed in my seat and readied for my hour-long trip. The train’s whistle sounded and the train began its departure from the city, while I began to watch my progress on Google maps. But wait! I was suddenly confused to see that the train heading northwesterly towards Alkmaar.  It dawned on me that I made a major mistake by taking the earlier departure…this train was a local, not the express, so there I was, sightseeing in the Netherlands countryside for an extra half hour…a mistake I was sure to not make on my return!

A bit beyond my anticipated arrival, we finally pulled into the Hoorn station and I made my way past canals, flowers and quaint homes, much like I have seen in other parts of the country. I had planned a route that would take me though the center of the city and its churches, to the waterfront and to two of the city’s ancient gates.

Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn
Architecture of Hoorn

The Grote Kerk, of which origins date back to medieval times, was my first stop, but unfortunately, I found it to be under construction and not open to the public.  This structure is the third to be built on the site and dates back to 1883.  While I was not allowed inside, I was able to admire its tower with its unadorned needle spire and clock from afar. I then continued on to the main square, hoping to visit the Roman Catholic church of Saint Cyriacus and Francis, popularly called the Dome Church.

Grote Kerk
Grote Kerk

Geez, were all of the churches undergoing construction???!!!  Here, I found the façade of the Dome Church blocked with scaffolding, however, undeterred, I found the entrance and took a peek inside. 

The Dome Church

The Dome Church, built in 1882, is still in use today and known for its amazing dome, stained glass and renowned artwork.  A small chapel greeted me as I entered, however, the interior was partitioned off by a glass wall.  While I would have loved to walk through towards the main altar so that I could appreciate the dome, the glass doors were locked.  Still, I was grateful that I could see some of its interior from afar.

Upon my departure, I headed toward the main part of town, passing through the Kaasmarkt (main square) and the statue of Jan Pietersz Coen. Though the city’s streets were on the quiet side, I was not surprised to see a few other tourists congregating around this statue and dining in the outdoor restaurants that lined the square.

Statue of Jan Pietersz Coen
Kaasmarkt

Making my way towards the waterfront and marina, I found a paved pathway, which was perfect for exercise and just enjoying the beauty of the lake, Markermeer.  As I followed the coast towards the small lighthouse at the end of the path, I took in the various artwork that lined the walkway.  Designed by various artists, they comprised both modern and rustic elements.  My favorite?  “The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink.

The Empty Coat” by Marion Jebbink

Eventually, my walk ended at the lighthouse, a small, basic wood-beam structure.  It was not very picturesque, but it had given my walk a purpose and I had some good views of the Heritage Sailing Center and the Museum of the 20th Century. 

Museum of the 20th Century
Heritage Sailing Center

Heading back to where I had come, I then skirted the marina on the far side, making my way to the Hoofdtoren.

Views from the waterfront
Boats and houses along the Grashaven

The Hoofdtoren is a tower named after the nearby jetty Houten Hoofd and was constructed in 1532.  While it acted as one of the last defenses of the city and located at the port, it now acts as a popular restaurant.  Adjacent to the tower, on the quay wall, is a statue of the Ship Boys of Bontekoe from the book of the same name and it is a nice place to take in the beautiful old boats that fill the harbor.

Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Hoofdtoren
Boats in the Vluchthaven
Boats in the Vluchthaven
Boats along the Binnenhaven

A little further up the Oude Doelenkade, I crossed the Hoge Bruge, the iron drawbridge that crosses the Oude Haven and headed toward the Oosterkerk.  Built in 1616, the church was originally a Roman Catholic temple used by fisherman and boat captains.  After the Reformation, it became a Dutch Reformed Church and was known for its beautiful stained-glass windows but also for its organ, built in 1764 by Johann Heinrich Hartmann Batz…the only one that he built in North Holland.  Today, decommissioned, the historic structure is a cultural center which hosts activities such as concerts, meetings, weddings and memorials.  

Hoge Bruge
Hoge Bruge
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk
Oosterkerk

Sadly, it wasn’t really my day for churches…I found this one locked up as well…

Kleine Oostbrug

Finally, crossing the Kleine Oostbrug, I made it to the edge of the city center and the Oosterpoort, the city’s only remaining gate, built in 1578.  Located on the Draafsingel, a remnant of the original defensive canal, the Oosterpoort bridge runs under the gate, giving pedestrians and cyclists a pathway across the waterway.  While it serves a practical purpose, it definitely gives visitors a look into the city’s history and a place for stunning photos. 

Oosterpoort
Oosterpoort bridge
Oosterpoort
Oosterpoort

As the day was coming to a close, I wound my way back through the city, crossing the pedestrian bridge, Kippebruggetje, enroute to the train station.  I had enjoyed my outing in the beautiful little city of Hoorn, but shadows were now creeping in, signaling the day’s end.  I wanted to make sure that I caught my train back to Amsterdam.

Kippebruggetje

This time…the right train!

Adventures in Aruba Part 4

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In addition to beaches, Aruba is filled with farms and sanctuaries…donkeys, ostriches, birds and butterflies!

During our stay we had already visited the donkeys and the ostriches so naturally, butterflies were next on our list .

First, however, there were a few places we wanted to see.

The capital of Aruba, Oranjestad is named after “Huis van Oranje’ (Orange House), the name of the Dutch Royal Family in 1824 during the Dutch colonization. This downtown area is filled with plenty of traditional Dutch multicolored buildings, museums, restaurants and shops scattered through Main Street, the Royal Plaza Mall and Renaissance Marketplace.

Finding a parking space in the downtown area is a challenge, but after a little back and forth, we finally secured a spot. Parking near the National Archaeological Museum of Aruba put us near many of these architectural gems as well as the Wharfside Flea Market, where we perused the stalls looking for Aruban souvenirs and treasures.

National Archaeological Museum of Aruba
Architecture of Oranjestad
Architecture of Oranjestad
Architecture of Oranjestad
Wharfside Flea Market

A quick six minute walk brought us to the I Love Aruba Sign on Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard the perfect place for souvenir pics! While this particular sign is convenient for cruise ship passengers…Promenade Cruise Port is located adjacently…there are a few other signs located throughout the island (Parliament House, Senor Frog’s, Hadicurari Beach) if you don’t happen to visit downtown Oranjestad.

I Love Aruba Sign on Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard
I Love Aruba Sign at Hadicurari Beach

Jumping back in our car, we headed back toward Palm Beach and made a quick stop at The Old Mill. Known as De Oude Molen, it was built back in 1804 in the Netherlands, meticulously taken apart, shipped to and reconstructed in Aruba in 1960. Planned as a tourist attraction, a new base was constructed and a restaurant ensconced within. Today, The Old Mill is still a top tourist attraction as well as a museum, resort and a top dining option. While we found the museum and restaurant closed due to the early hour, we were able to peek inside at the dining facility which is decorated with furniture and paintings dating between 880 and 1800.

The Old Mill (De Oude Molen)

Finally, we headed (almost next door) to the Butterfly Farm. Opened in 1999, it was preceded by the first Butterfly Farm, located in Saint Martin and established in 1994. Located on the French side of the island, it was designed and built by two eccentric Englishmen, William Slayter and John Coward.

Aruba Butterfly Farm

Discovering success on Saint Martin, five years later, Slayter decided to open another farm in Aruba. While the farm in Aruba has thrived, sadly, the farm in Saint Martin was destroyed by the category five hurricane, Irma in September 2017.

After purchasing our admission, we were able to join a tour that was about to begin. Here, we found ourselves in a net-enclosed miniature rain forest filled with beautiful flowers, plants and trees…the perfect home for butterflies!

From our guide, we learned about the evolutionary cycle from microscopic eggs, to to caterpillars, to pupae. We were also instructed on how to handle the butterflies and caterpillars and those with brightly colored clothing and citrus scented perfumes were lucky enough to attract these beautiful creatures!

Once our tour was complete, we were welcomed to stay as long as we wanted. While it was warm and humid inside (the perfect environment), we walked around for quite some time, enjoying the beauty of these beautiful winged creatures as they flitted around from leaf to leaf and branch to branch and dined on sugar water and fruit.

While I would have loved to continue our theme of “farms and sanctuaries” and checked out the Bubali Bird Sanctuary, this was our last full day in Aruba that was not going to be strictly a beach day. The next day was to be spent in the sun with our feet in the sand and toes in the water! While birds would be flying overhead, this would be as close as we would come to Aruba’s flying friends!

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I Love Aruba Sign

  • Address: Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard 19, Oranjestad, Aruba
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Old Mill

The Butterfly Farm Aruba

  • https://www.thebutterflyfarm.com/
  • Address: J. Irausquin Boulevard Z/N, Orangestad, Aruba
  • Hours: 0830-1630, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $16.00, Children ages 4-17, $8.50, Children under 4, free, Seniors, $13.00

Adventures in Aruba Part 3-Rock On

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Years ago, during my first ever visit to Aruba, my husband and I had visited the island’s natural bridge. The Aruba Natural Bridge was a coral limestone arch, measuring approximately 25 feet high and 100 feet long and the remnants of an ancient cave. Many years later, we had heard that this well known attraction had sadly succumbed to mother nature on September 2, 2005.

Even though I was aware that this tourist attraction no longer existed, we decided to take a drive out to the location and at least walk among the nearby ruins of the Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins…it wouldn’t take long and there were some other things along the way that we wanted to see.

As we drove along the dirt road, we noticed a great deal of traffic headed out that way and then subsequently, a packed parking area. While the original Natural Bridge no longer existed, a smaller version, the Aruba Baby Natural Bridge, is located nearer to shore. Not as impressive as the original, however, it still draws large crowds and the occasional idiot who ignores the warning signs and tries to walk across it!

Aruba Baby Natural Bridge
Coastline at Aruba Natural Bridge

After a few photos and a stop in the Visitor’s Center for drinks and the restroom, we headed over to the Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins. Once a bustling mill which existed during Aruba’s gold rush, it used the power of strong ocean winds to crush stone and isolate gold ore. Ore was processed into fine gold and exported. The mill only operated for a couple of decades and was closed to make way for a newer, state of the art mill at Balashi, in Aruba’s interior.

Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins

Sitting vacant in the harsh environment of Arikok National Park for more than a century, only its natural stone walls remain and it is open to visitors who can walk freely throughout the structure. While there is not much to see besides what is left of the structure, its contrast against Aruba’s brilliant blue skies makes for beautiful photographs and it offers a bit of exercise while climbing to different levels of the mill. Stunning views of the Caribbean can be had from the structure as well as from the ocean’s edge where dozens of cairns line the water’s edge.

Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins
Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins

I remembered these cairns from the first time I had visited the island and was surprised to see many still in place. Some controversy has arisen due to the practice. While tourists think it is a way to “make a wish” or stack the rocks as a “monument” or “landmark”, National Park officials have condemned the practice as it defaces the natural beauty of the area and upsets the habitats of many species.

Cairns at Aruba Natural Beach
Cairns at Aruba Natural Beach

Moving on, we left the park, with our visit to the Donkey Sanctuary the day before still on our mind. We had enjoyed our interactions with those amazing animals so much, that when we learned that there was an ostrich farm in close proximity, we decided to make it our next stop.

Luckily, after paying our admission, we learned that we didn’t have to wait long for the next tour to begin. After spending a few minutes browsing in the gift shop, we heeded our summons into the farm’s open-air atrium which was decorated with African figurines and long wooden handcrafted tables where guests can enjoy meals from the farm’s restaurant, Savannah.

Ostrich Farm Restaurant and Interior

Our guide, a colorful, Crocodile Dundee look-a-like, introduced himself, gave us a short background on the farm’s history and then led us out onto the dusty pathways between the gated pens. We were introduced to the adult emus and ostriches and learned about the ostriches speed and defense mechanisms as well as about their mating, rearing and feeding habits. At this point, we were each invited to feed two of the ostriches. As my son and I held a bowl, the up and down bobbing of their heads, as they gobbled up their food, was quite comical. “Mr. Dundee” filmed the entire spectacle so that we could remember “that time we fed an ostrich!” and then we all moved on, aiming to meet the other residents. If we thought that the donkeys had unique personalities, we found that the ostriches’ were outrageous with their goofy bald heads, loopy gait and how they followed us, watching carefully.

Feeding the Ostriches

And then…for the emus…the three-toed cousin of the ostrich. Though I knew that emus were different than ostriches, my knowledge of the differences pretty much ended at the fact that they were smaller. So yes, we were informed that while emus and ostriches share many physical characteristics such as broad eyes, elongated, featherless necks, long, strong legs that can maintain high speeds when running, long dagger-like claws and large wings that are not used for flight, but for courtship, they are quite different and more so than their toes.

While emus are the largest birds in Australia, they are small when compared to the ostrich, the largest bird on earth. Emus have three toes on their feet and ostriches have two plus a long tendon that allows them to run at speeds of up to nearly 45 miles per hour. Emus generally top out at 30 miles per hour and are much more docile toward humans than the ostrich. This, we witnessed as a male ostrich acted a bit hostile towards our tour guide and then stole his hat. And, while we were only allowed to feed the ostriches from a bowl, we were allowed to hand feed the emus, something I would not have dared to do with the ostriches earlier.

Emus

Finally, our tour concluded with a visit to the incubator, hatchery and the special pens for the young ostriches and emus. Seeing the size of the ostrich eggs was quite fascinating…talk about a huge omelet!

Incubator, Hatchery and young Ostrich

After our visit to the ostrich farm was complete, we decided that we had time for one more tourist attraction, the Casibari Rock Formations. Proof of its popularity was the many tour buses parked in the adjacent lot, however, we were not deterred.

The Casibari Rock Formations is a series of boulders that are piled almost randomly in the Aruban desert just north of Hooiberg. Scientists cannot explain what geological even might have created these formations, though there is speculation that it may have been the shifting of the tectonic plates. Archaeologists and historians are fascinated by the petroglyphs and paintings that appear on many of the rocks, drawn by the Arawak people who deemed this land sacred.

Casibari Rock Formations

As we made our way through the entrance, we found an interesting rock formation called “Dragon Mouth”, one of many found throughout the park. Following the trails and paths which weave throughout the area, we also noted that many of the enormous stones were also named for animals which they resemble.

Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations

Making our way to the highest point, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the island as well as of the Hooiberg, also known as the Haystack, a volcanic formation that towers some 540 feet above Aruba.

Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations
Casibari Rock Formations
View of Hooiberg from Casibari Rock Formations

There were many beautiful cacti throughout the premises and we learned that many creatures inhabit the area, including iguanas to burrowing owls.

Cacti of Casibari Rock Formations
Cacti of Casibari Rock Formations
Cacti of Casibari Rock Formations

Last, but not least, we drove to the nearby Ayo Rock Formations, similar to the Casibari Rock Formations. As with the former visit, we found many trails and stairways which took us throughout the premises and spotted many petroglyphs, some protected by iron bars. This one, however, had some gigantic wind-carved boulders which were piled in such a way that it created tunnels and caves. We also spotted an opening in one of the rocks which contained a white female statue.

Ayo Rock Formations Entrance
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations
Ayo Rock Formations Petroglyphs
Ayo Rock Formations

Being in the heat of the day, with no protection from the sun, we decided that our tour of the central part of the island was complete. It was now time to head to the coastline and its blue waters and white sands for some cooling off. This time, we headed to the far opposite of the island from where we had put our toes in the water the day before. First, we tried Eagle Beach, a wide swath of golden sand which offers chairs, umbrellas (for a fee), food and drink options and jet ski rentals. Not long after our arrival, the skies darkened and the wind picked up, pelting us with sand. Deciding it wasn’t the place for us, we headed down to Arashi Beach, which had some good waves and chairs and umbrellas for rent. A nice way to spend the remainder of the afternoon, we lounged in the sun before finally headed back to our hotel, right in time for another beautiful sunset.

Our third day was definitely packed with Aruba’s top sights, natural bridges, ruins, rocks and ostriches.

Aruba doesn’t disappoint!

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Aruba Natural Bridge

Bushiribana Gold Mill Ruins

  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Aruba Ostrich Farm

  • https://www.arubaostrichfarm.com/
  • Address: Matividiri 57, Aruba
  • Hours: Tour Schedule, every hour from 1000 until 1500 every day of the week.
  • Admission: Adults, $15.00, Children, $8.00

Casibari Rock Formations

Ayo Rock Formations

  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Eagle Beach

Adventures in Aruba Part 2

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There’s a saying about one our most western states, “If you don’t like the weather in California, wait five minutes.”

While we were not in California or the United States for that matter, the morning’s drizzle gave us pause. Knowing, however, how rain showers come and go on Aruba, we waited five minutes for it to pass and decided to press on and go to the “California” in Aruba…the California lighthouse.

A short drive from our hotel, following a line of ATV Quads the entire way, we found the California Lighthouse in the area known as “Hudishibana,” near the island’s northwestern tip. While keeping watch and guiding sailors away from the rocky coastline, it also draws thousands of tourists each year, many part of ATV adventures that start at the lighthouse and then head on over to the nearby Arashi Dunes.

Since we were in charge of our own tour, we found a parking spot in the lot adjacent to the lighthouse and paid our admission to the attendant at the door, readying ourselves to begin the long, spiraling climb to the top.

One hundred steps later, we had spectacular 360 degree views of the island.

Named after the steamship California, which was wrecked nearby on September 23, 1891, the lighthouse was built in 1916 and stands 98 feet tall. It became automated in 1970 and was restored in 2106; its one hundredth anniversary. While visitors come throughout the day, many flock to the area at sunset, to watch the the sun hit the horizon and hope to catch a glimpse of the legendary green flash.

Views from the top of the California Lighthouse
Area around the California Lighthouse

After our tour of the lighthouse was complete, we headed to Arikok National Park, which comprises almost twenty percent of the island. Approaching from the Vader Piet entrance, we first encountered the Vader Piet Wind Farm. These giant wind turbines comprise one of the best performing wind farms in the world, due to the northeast winds that consistently blow in the area.

Vader Piet Wind Farm
Vader Piet Wind Farm

Passing the Huliba Cave (which was closed as we were informed by the gate attendant), we continued on through the rugged terrain, admiring the desert-like hills, tall cacti and breathtaking coastline. Taking the next turnoff, we found ourselves at the Quadirikiri Cave.

The Quadirikiri Caves are a system of three caves that are open for exploration. Located at the base of a limestone cliff, we found the entrance and followed the pathway which penetrated the dark recesses of the cave, spotting Amerindian petroglyphs, stalactites and stalagmites along the way.

Quadirikiri Caves
Quadirikiri Caves
Quadirikiri Caves

Continuing onward through the park, we drove the dusty roads, eyeing wild goats and donkeys in the barren fields before we found the entrance to the next cave system.

Fontein Cave is more developed for tourists than Quadirikiri and offers rustic, stone picnic tables outside the entrance. We were greeted by a park ranger who directed us to follow the stone-lined pathway and pointed out more petroglyphs on the cave’s ceiling. It was dark at the rear of the cavern and occasionally a bat or two flew past our heads toward the opening.

Fontein Cave
Fontein Cave
Fontein Cave Petroglyphs
Fontein Cave

Next, we made pit stops at Boca Prins and Dos Playa, two stunning beaches along the northeast coast. Although both were extremely picturesque and inviting and we were tempted with the lure of a refreshing swim, signs warned visitors of very strong undertows. Instead, we decided to capture their beauty photographically and my son took a long walk to the cliff jutting out over the strong waves so that he could see the surfers enjoying the afternoon swell.

Boca Prins
Dos Playa

Tiring of the dodging potholes and large rocks, I was quite please to see paved roads ahead as we exited the national park.

The way out.

Next stop on the agenda was one of my favorites of the entire trip; the Donkey Sanctuary.

The Donkey Sanctuary

Five hundred years ago, donkeys were bought to the island to act as a mode of transportation. When cars were introduced, donkeys were no longer needed and many were released into the wild. In the 1970’s an illness decimated the population leaving only about twenty donkeys.

The Donkey Sanctuary

In 1997, the Donkey Sanctuary was founded with a clear purpose to save the donkeys that populate the island. Today approximately 130 donkeys live at the sanctuary and visitors are invited to interact, feed and pet them. The donkeys, who have names such as 7UP, Annie, Big Momma and Cinnamon, are extremely friendly and like to walk up and nuzzle you, hoping for some affection and of course, food!

While we had never really spent any time near donkeys, we found them to be extremely sweet and each exhibited unique personalities, distinguishing themselves from the others. As we made our way through the enclosure, some greeted us with loud braying and followed us to the enclosed porch. While we learned from a sign that they enjoy being treated to apples and carrots, we hadn’t brought any with us, so we purchased a large container of donkey feed and spent a bit of time nourishing them and laughing at their antics.

The Donkey Sanctuary does not charge admission, but welcomes donations and earns money through the sale of donkey feed and from exclusive items in their gift shop.

The Donkey Sanctuary Gift Shop

Traveling along the southeast coast of Aruba, we headed to the far southern end of the island to finally spend some time in the sun and sand! Our destination was Baby Beach in San Nicolas, a curved strip of white sand with turquoise water. Aptly named because its calm, warm, shallow waters are perfect for young swimmers, we found it to be a bit crowded, obviously a popular spot for both locals and tourists. After finding a parking spot, we hit the beach and rented chairs from Big Mama Grill, a bit of an expensive venture for the two hours that we were going to be there. But, tired of driving and ready to cool off in the ocean, we paid the fee and took a much needed break, enjoying the beautiful view and the warm rays.

Baby Beach Entrance
Baby Beach

As the sun was beginning to dip, we decided to make one last stop before heading back to our hotel; the Seroe Colorado Lighthouse. While we expected a structure much like what we had seen earlier in the day, we were disappointed to find only a rusted metal cage at the peak of the beach area, which houses the light. Not an architectural highlight, but the views from this area were stunning and the cactus growing in the area made for some interesting photos.

Seroe Colorado Lighthouse

So, as we finally made the long drive back to the northwest side of the island, we talked about all that we had done and seen on this first full day in Aruba. We had started with a lighthouse and we ended the day with one as well, filling the middle with caves, bats, beaches and donkeys.

Aruba is full of great things!

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California Lighthouse

Arikok National Park

  • https://www.arubanationalpark.org/main/
  • Address: San Fuego 70, Santa Cruz, AW
  • Hours: San Fuego entrance, 0800-1600. Vader Piet entrance, 0800-1530. Visitor center closes at 1530. Closed January 1.
  • Admission: Adults (non residents, ages 18+), $15.00 USD, Children (under age 18), free. Adults (residents, ages 18+), AWG5 (about $2.77 USD), Children (under age 18), free.

Aruba Donkey Sanctuary

Baby Beach

Seroe Colorado Lighthouse

  • Address: C49J+99C, San Nicolas, Aruba
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free

Adventures in Aruba Part 1

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Spring is a time of new beginnings.

Its a time for warm weather to replace the cold, flowers to replace dead grass, animals to emerge from hibernation, players to fill baseball diamonds…

Spring brings hope…and SPRING BREAK!

Yes, every year, thousands of families and students descend upon beaches everywhere hoping to escape winter’s icy fingers and return home, to the envy of friends and those not so fortunate, to show off their tan lines!

Over the years, I have been blessed to have had the opportunity to take my children on some pretty awesome vacations, some, during their Spring Breaks. Last year was no exception. This time, my youngest son and I decided to head to the far southern reaches of the Caribbean…

Aruba.

While we didn’t take advantage of staying on popular Palm or Eagle Beaches, we had rented a car, which in turn, offered us the opportunity to make our way all over the island. After a long day of travel, we were excited to have arrived, excited to make our way to hotel and excited to get our vacation started.

Our hotel, situated across from the Hadicurari Beach, where sailboarders glide across the shallow Caribbean waters, was clean and offered us what a traditional hotel room couldn’t…a kitchen. We were excited to stock our fridge with some snacks, ice down our beer, get settled in our hotel room and cross the road to put our feet in the sand. But…finding more rocks than sand, we attempted to manipulate a path to deeper waters. One step in…

Ouch!

A crab got me.

Okay…maybe this wasn’t the hotel for us.

Yet…that evening, as we sat on our patio and opened up a couple of Balashi Beers, we realized that despite the less than optimum beachfront real estate, the sunsets here were spectacular. This is what the hotels and homes in this area are known for!

With a car at our disposal, we could enjoy different beachfront properties each day and then retire to this little slice of paradise to enjoy our own personal happy hour!

On our first day, that first sip of Balashi, along with the spectacular views, gave us hope for the days to come.

Friends in Foreign Places

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Portugal is one of those places that you just can’t get enough of. Of course, that being said, your legs and feet might tire quickly of the multitude of stairs and elevations that comes with climbing throughout hilly cities like Lisbon and Sintra!

One day, I decided that I needed some sea-level sight-seeing. A friend was in the nearby coastal community of Cascais perfecting his Portuguese in one of the local schools and I made a plan to take the train for a quick visit.

After working all night, a nap was desperately needed, so I texted him that I would take the three o’clock train. Of course, my Uber ride to the station was delayed by traffic so my departure was about twenty minutes later, but still, daylight hours are plentiful in late May and we would have time to do a quick tour of the town.

Train between Lisbon and Cascais

Forty minutes later, after some beautiful coastal scenery, I was waving to Dave as I exited the train. There were some items of particular interest that I wanted to explore on my own and had planned to meet Dave a little later (so as not to bore him), but he insisted that he would be my tour guide so that I would not miss anything!

Setting off from the station, Dave and I began our trek on the cobbled streets of Cascais, passing colorful buildings, patterned walkways and stunning architecture underneath a dazzling blue sky. Boats bobbed on the water, sunbathers lounged lazily on the Praia da Rebeira and residents and visitors were out in full force exercising and enjoying the beauty and warmth of the afternoon.

The sights and architecture of Cascais
The sights and architecture of Cascais

First, we encountered 5th of October Square, the heart of Cascais, of which the name comes from the revolution in 1910, when the monarchy was abolished in Portugal. This square boasts the traditional black and white calçada, wave-patterned pavement, which can be seen throughout the city, as well as the Old Town Hall and the statue of Dom Pedro I, King of 14th century Portugal.

5th of October Square

Moving on, we found Nossa Senhora Da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral). Dave was not sure of its opening hours, however, we were lucky enough to find the doors open. This church was originally built in the 1500s on the site of a Visigothic necropolis. Damaged by the 1755 earthquake, it was restored and remains the main church of Cascais.

Nossa Senhora Da Assunção

Inside the single-nave church, we were greeted by a barrel-vaulted ceiling centered with a image created by José Malhoa of Our Lady of the Assumption and original blue tile panels that were added from 1720 to 1748, depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin, which thankfully, survived the earthquake’s fury.

Nossa Senhora Da Assunção
Nossa Senhora Da Assunção
Nossa Senhora Da Assunção

The gilded-wooden main altar at the far end was remarkably detailed as well as the side chapels designed in the same style. On the upper walls, there were a number of 17th century paintings, some by Josefa d’Obidos, one of Portugal’s most prolific painters and one of the few female artists in the world at the time. The baptistry also contained some traditional tilework in the Portuguese style.

Nossa Senhora Da Assunção

While the cathedral wasn’t a large one, it’s impressive interior was worth visiting and we were glad that we had encountered it unlocked, as we learned later that it usually only opens for services.

As we circled the building, we found a statue of Pope John Paul II, which was unveiled in 2010 as a tribute to the much loved Pope by the city. The life-sized statue depicts the Pope bestowing a blessing and holding a staff and was designed by artist Alves André.

Statue of Pope John Paul II

A short walk from the cathedral, we found the entrance to the Citadel of Cascais which was built between the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the coastline and to protect attacks on the capital city, Lisbon, by the English. By the 19th century, however, King Luis I of Portugal ordered it to become a place of rest and retreat for the royal family. As the royal family spent the months of September and October in the city, it grew and attracted other affluent people who also desired to spend their summers there. Electricity was installed in the late 1800s and in 1977, the complex was restored and classified as a Property of Public Interest.

Citadel of Cascais

While I expected the traditional architecture of a fortification, I wasn’t quite expecting what lay inside. Normally, I would think to find cannons and war memorabilia, however, the Citadel now boasts an Arts Center and a hotel built into one of its buildings. There were some interesting pieces of modern art scattered throughout the premises as well as the traditional patterned pavement, blending old with the new.

Citadel of Cascais
Citadel of Cascais
Citadel of Cascais

A little further down Avenida R. Humberto II de Italia, we discovered the 17th century Chapel São Sabastião on the grounds of the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães and Marechal Carmona Park. The chapel is closed to the public, but we learned that its interior’s walls are lined with traditional painted tile images of Saint Sebastian’s life and his deeds as a saint. The chapel is maintained by the Dominican fathers, who hold religious services in English every Sunday, and it is a popular location for weddings and baptisms.

Chapel São Sabastião
Chapel São Sabastião

Walking a short distance, we checked out the grounds of the museum, posing alongside the painted tile fountain and checked out its cloister. Its décor was extremely detailed, yet eclectic, and while we were curious about its interior and history, we did not have time to include it in our visit. What we did learn, however, was that it was originally known as the Torre de São Sebastião (St. Sebastian’s Tower) and was built in 1900 as an aristocrat’s summer residence. It became a museum in 1931 and includes significant national and international paintings, furniture, porcelain, jewelry and a neo-Gothic organ.

Marechal Carmona Park
Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães
Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães
Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães

While what we had seen so far of the building’s exterior was stunning, it wasn’t until we continued on Avenida Rei Humberto II de Italia that we realized its most striking feature…the tower, with its base jutting out into a small cove. There are several gargoyles, protruding eaves and porches and it sits alongside a small beach and the waterway that passes underneath the road. And to the tower’s yin, there was its yang sitting across the road on the coast…the lofty Santa Maria Lighthouse, adjacent to Casa Santa Maria, a perfect example of a Portuguese house.

Torre de São Sebastião
Santa Maria Lighthouse

As if this scenery wasn’t spectacular enough, a little further up the road, we encountered a pathway leading to the natural bridge, Boca do Inferno, formed by the erosion of rock from the pounding of the waves beneath. There were a few restaurants here, some street performers and a building with a few vendors. It was a nice place to regroup for our walk back to town.

Boca do Inferno
Street performer at Boca do Inferno

Dave and I were walking along, back to town, conversing about work. Since our job is so unique, sometimes people can discern what we do just from the terms we use. All of a sudden, a couple sidled up along side of us and asked us if we were flight attendants. After a short conversation, amazingly enough, they knew someone who had worked for our company and had retired in Cascais! They tried calling her to meet us, unsuccessfully, however, but they continued to walk with us back toward town.

Next thing you know, we were accepting an invitation to have drinks at their charming apartment in the center of town! Since Dave is planning to possibly retire there one day, it was a convenient meeting and the makings of a new friendship!

Unfortunately for me, despite the wonderful company, I had to bid my adieu to my old friend Dave and our new friends to make my train back to Lisbon. Missing out on dinner with this amazing group was unfortunate, but dinner plans with some of my crewmembers was approaching.

Now that I know how beautiful Cascais is, however, I will most definitely be making my way there again in the future…especially when Dave will be there! It pays to have friends in foreign places!

Cascais Coast

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5th of October Square

Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção

Citadel of Cascais

  • Address: Avenida D. Carlos I, Cascais, 2750-642
  • Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1800. Guided tours from Wednesdays to Sundays at 1200.
  • Admission: €4.00

Chapel São Sabastião

  • Address 2750-642, Cascais, Portugal
  • Hours: not open to the public except for religious services on Sundays
  • Admission: free

Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães

  • https://bairrodosmuseus.cascais.pt/list/museu/museu-condes-de-castro-guimaraes/
  • Address: Avª. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 2750-319 Cascais
  • Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
  • Admission: €5.00, Cascais Cultural Center/House of Stories Paula Rego/Santa Maria House/Lighthouse Santa Marta Museum. €4.00, Condes Castro Guimarães Museum.€3.00, King D. Carlos Sea Museum/Museum of Portuguese Music/Fort of S. Jorge de Oitavos. €1.00, Casa Duarte Pinto Coelho. Daily ticket to visit all facilities valid for 1 day, €13.00. Senior tickets, students and Cascais residents, 50% discount on the entrance ticket. Free first Sunday of each month.

Santa Maria Lighthouse Museum

Boca do Inferno

  • Address: Avenida Redi Humberto II de Italia 642, 2750-642 Cascais, Portugal
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

 

The Noble Tombs of Verona

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The Scaliger family (also known as Della Scala or Saligieri) of Verona was an influential one from the 13th to 14th century, ruling during this time period.

The family rose to prominence during the 11th century with their founder, Masstino I della Scala becoming the chief magistrate after the defeat and death of Ezzelino da Romano, a tyrant of Verona, in 1277. Succeeded by his brother Alberto and subsequently by Alberto’s son, Bartolomeo, it was during the latter’s reign that, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet fell in love and died.

With such prestige in life, it is expected that in death, the members of this family would also be celebrated and entombed extravagantly so that others could pay homage for many centuries.

In many cultures, cemeteries exist so that the living can pay their respects to the dead. The Italian one is no exception, however, while some gravesites that Americans are familiar with are simple headstones, prominent families in Italy are entombed in elaborate mausoleums. These mausoleums of the Scaligeri are fine examples of the artistic talents put to use to show the wealth and power that the family held.

In Verona, the Scaliger tombs stand in the courtyard of the Church of Santa Maria Antica, which dates to 1185. While I was not sure what I was enroute to see, after spotting it on Google Maps a few blocks from Juliet’s House, it was certainly a landmark that I was glad that I had sought out. To say that the Scaliger tombs are elaborate would be an understatement!

Enclosed by an iron fence, it is easy for passersby to examine the tombs from afar. I assure you, however, it is worth the minimal entrance fee to enter the premises and see these monumental burial chambers up close and personal.

Entrance to the Scaligeri Tombs (doorway, left) and Santa Maria Antica (doorway, right)

Adjacent to the Piazza dei Signori, the historic central square of Verona’s Città Antica and other major attractions, the memorials invite visitors to understand the idea of the wealth and power of the Lords of Verona. While the funerary monuments are not plentiful, they are indeed breathtaking examples of Gothic art.

A handout, given to me by caretakers who also accepted my entrance fee, directed me around the small courtyard and I inspected each of the tombs which are located on the ground or on raised floors.

The tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala is placed above the portal of the church and is the first of the tombs that was built in the 14th century by his own will. The tomb is comprised of a tabernacle supported by embellished dogs and on the lid is the reclining statue of the deceased. The sides are decorated and on the top of the canopy, there is a copy of the equestrian statue of Cangrande I (the original is kept in the Castelvecchio Museum along with the funerary equipment).

Tomb of Cangrande I Della Scala

The ark of Mastino II, which was begun in 1345, had many design changes over the years. Originally painted and gilded, it is surrounded by a gate at the corners of which there are four statues of the Virtues. On the lid, there is a statue of Mastino II lying down and being watched over by two angels. There is an equestrian statue of Mastino II, a copy, of which the original being located in the Castelvecchio clock tower.

The ark of Mastino II

The ark of Cansignorio, which dates back to 1375, is the most elaborately decorated. Designed by Bonino da Campione, it depicts sculptures of warrior saints, characters from the Gospels, Virtues and Apostles and a large equestrian statue of Cansignorio.

The ark of Cansignorio

The sarcophagus of Albert I is a richly carved monument, constructed in 1301.

The sarcophagus of Albert I
Tomb of Bartolomeo I
Tomb of Alboino

The tomb of Mastino I is the oldest.

Tomb of Mastino I

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala is a work by Andriolo de Santi. It was finished in 1359 at the church of S. Fermo Maggiore, where it remained until 1400.

The hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala

This sarcophogi is the most ornamented in the lot. It was possibly commissioned by Alberto I in 1300 and might have been the first burial site for Cangrande.

Possibly the first burial site of Cangrande

After my inspection of the tombs was complete, I found the Church of Santa Maria Antica to be open on this day. This small church was originally linked with a convent founded in 744-745. In the 1200s, it became the private chapel of the Scaligeri family who then erected their famous sepulchre alongside the structure.

The Church of Santa Maria Antica

Wandering in, I donned a shoulder covering given to me by one of the volunteers. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before departing.

Santa Maria Antica
Santa Maria Antica

There were many places that I visited on my brief trip to Verona. It was interesting to realize, in retrospect, that so many of the places I had visited, had connections to the others. The Castelvecchio Museum contained some of original pieces of the Scaligeri tombs, which I had unknowingly inspected on my visit there earlier in the day, and later on, I had visited San Fermo Maggiore church which had held the hanging ark by Giovanni della Scala for many years. I had not known all of this prior to my visit, but only later, when doing some research.

While not a lengthy visit, take a few minutes to visit the Scaligeri tombs to comprehend the beauty and history of these funerary monuments and seek out their significance in the other landmarks of Verona.

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Scaliger Tombs

  • Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet, Oh Juliet…

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A visit to Verona is not complete until you visit the place immortalized in William Shakespeare’s tragic romance, Romeo and Juliet.

Well…

While tourists flock to the place labeled, “Juliet’s House”, pose with Juliet’s statue and stand on the balcony that they envision her to have used while declaring her love for Romeo, many forget that Romeo and Juliet only ever existed on the pages of some very well known literature.

Shakespeare’s fateful love story, first published in 1597, was preceded by Arthur Brooke’s poem, The Tragicall Historye of Romeus and Juliet, (1562), which in turn was inspired by older Italian writers, including Luigi de Porto and Matteo Bandello, who told the story of Romeo and Giuletta and the feud between their families. But, so enthralled by the literary tales, centuries of readers took to heart the story, some forgetting that it wasn’t actually based on real characters.

Seventy years ago, Antonio Avena, the director of the city’s museums, wanted to capitalize on that misunderstanding. He transformed the 13th century property of the Dal Cappello family into the home of the imaginary Juliet, after the house was purchased by the City of Verona. The idea was to give a physical location to the fictional story and a boost to Verona’s tourist industry. Extensive restoration of the home was eventually completed with a balcony, similar to that described in Shakespeare’s tale, added in the 20th century.

When tourists learned of this location and subsequently, the name of the original owners, the Cappellos, more commonly known as the Cappellettis, the natural progression was to associate that name with the last name of their heroine, Capuleti, leading them to believe that this really had been Juliet’s house. Flocking to the house in droves, they hoped to feel the emotions of Juliet and see the place that she called home.

As a visitor to Verona, while there was so much to see and do, I did make it a point to visit Juliet’s House since it is such a popular attraction. Approaching the courtyard through the entranceway, I was greeted by a large crowd gathered under the balcony and surrounding a statue of Juliet, by sculptor Nereo Costantini. Many people were awaiting their turn to pose with and rub their hand over the statue’s right breast…a gesture which is supposed to bring love and fertility. It is not known why this custom started, but in order to preserve the original, the courtyard statue was moved into the museum for safekeeping and replaced with a copy.

Entrance and courtyard
Courtyard statue of Juliet

Paying my entrance fee, I made my way through the museum space, both upstairs and down. Of course I took my turn on the balcony, posing for a photograph and spotted the original statue of Juliet, protected and well away from prying hands.

Original Statue of Juliet

The house has been restored and appointed much as it would have appeared during the time period in which the Dal Cappellos resided there, though there is no evidence of anything in the house that belonged to the family. There are, however, many references to the Romeo and Juliet story…a bust of William Shakespeare, copies of the story, Renaissance-era costumes and the actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story. The rest of the furnishings and furniture are all genuine antiques from the 16th and 17th century.

Actual bed used in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film adaptation of the story.
Overhead view of courtyard

After my tour of the house was complete, I stepped back into the courtyard and noticed the red post box. Tourists used to leave letters tucked into the wall or stuck onto the bricks with chewing gum below the balcony, however, this practice was discouraged and the use of the box promoted. A movie I once viewed, Letters to Juliet, detailed an American tourist who finds an unanswered love letter shoved among the bricks. The story details the search for the intended recipient and the love story that results from it! These letters and those received from the mail do not go unanswered, however. Much like in the movie, a group of volunteers known as Club di Giulietta (the Juliet Club), replies to the more than 10,000 letters received annually, signing the responses, Juliet’s Secretary. Noticing through the small clear window on the front of the box, many letters that had already accumulated, I was glad to see that the tradition still continues.

With a quick glance around the museum’s gift shop, I found myself at the end of my tour. Stepping out of the gift shop with the intent to continue my day in Verona, I stopped and quickly stepped back inside. After a bit of searching, I purchased a pen and some paper, deciding that one day, I will use it to write a love letter to my own “Romeo”.

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Juliet’s House

  • https://www.italy-museum.com/venice/juliet-house
  • Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona, Italy
  • Hours: Tuesdays through Sundays, 0900-1800. Mondays, 1330-1800.
  • Admission: Adults, €11,60, Children (ages 8-14), €2,10, Children (under 8 years), €1,00